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Sturmey archer 3 speed shifter

Sturmey archer 3 speed shifter

Sturmey archer 3 speed shifter diagram

After replacing the tire, I realized I had shifted the adjuster’s lock nut and couldn’t recall where the shifter adjuster was previously set. I returned it to where I thought it had gone and gave it a test ride, which it passed with flying colors.
Recently, I’ve found that when I change gear, the gear “slips” a little (I think that’s the right word); I’ll be pedaling and it feels like the gear “slips” as the pedals drop a little as if missing something, then pick back up normally.
I’m not a big biker and even less of a mechanic, so I had a little trouble following the “Gear Adjustment” instructions in the manual I linked above. I changed my shifter to the following settings based on the diagram: I actually use that hub quite a bit, and was just looking into it for one of my customers earlier. Yes, you want the link from the chain to pin to be only protruding from the axle when you set the shifter to 2. Lift the back wheel off the ground and pedal one revolution forward and backwards to engage the brake for the first time, just to make sure it’s engaged in the gear, and check it again. Set it again if it has “settled into gear” and the location of the pin has shifted.

Sturmey archer 3 speed thumb shifter

After replacing the tire, I realized I had shifted the adjuster’s lock nut and couldn’t recall where the shifter adjuster was previously set. I returned it to where I thought it had gone and gave it a test ride, which it passed with flying colors.
Recently, I’ve found that when I change gear, the gear “slips” a little (I think that’s the right word); I’ll be pedaling and it feels like the gear “slips” as the pedals drop a little as if missing something, then pick back up normally.
I’m not a big biker and even less of a mechanic, so I had a little trouble following the “Gear Adjustment” instructions in the manual I linked above. I changed my shifter to the following settings based on the diagram: I actually use that hub quite a bit, and was just looking into it for one of my customers earlier. Yes, you want the link from the chain to pin to be only protruding from the axle when you set the shifter to 2. Lift the back wheel off the ground and pedal one revolution forward and backwards to engage the brake for the first time, just to make sure it’s engaged in the gear, and check it again. Set it again if it has “settled into gear” and the location of the pin has shifted.

Vintage sturmey archer 3 speed shifter

Product images with launch times, exploded views of hub internals with part numbers, service manuals, and catalogues can all be found here. It is divided into periods and specified in order of first production date or when published.
Sturmey-Archer was founded by Henry Sturmey, who was also the editor of a cycling magazine. From the beginning, Sturmey-Archer saw the value of advertising. Many of the ads are no longer politically correct, but they do represent popular opinion at the moment.
In the early twentieth century, motor cycles were a booming industry, and different types of engines and gearboxes were made. There was also a factory in Germany, and later on, engines for lawnmowers and small tractors were available.
General business information, sales catalogues, prices, and bike pictures from the past can be found here, as well as newspaper articles, production information, and factory views. There’s also a contribution from the country’s national poet at the time.

Sturmey archer 3 speed shifter adjustment

This page is specifically for the ‘classic’ AW hub, which was produced from the 1930s to the 1990s. Between high and second gears, this hub has a neutral position. The instructions on this page also refer to other olde Sturmey Archer hubs with a similar shifting feature, such as the TCW and SC3 coaster hubs, the FW four-speed and twin cable five-speed hubs (on the drive side).
Reason for this: A spring keeps high gear engaged. And there’s nothing else to keep the mechanism in high gear, you want to make sure the spring will do its job. The spring is being held off slightly, and high gear is not being held as firmly as it should be. Tension in the chain means that the spring is being held off slightly. Slack in the chain, on the other hand, indicates that the spring has completely released and is ready to work.
Choose neutral, which is approximately halfway between second and high gears. You should be able to turn the cranks without turning the wheel if neutral is chosen. If that’s the case, and the shifter is approximately in the centre, you’re good to go. Switch the adjuster a smidgeon one way or the other if possible.