Men in suits silhouette
British vs. italian vs. american – suit fashions & silhouettes
People sometimes define the silhouette of a suit in terms of its nationality. Suits are classified into three categories: American, British, and Continental. The first is a sack or adapted sack silhouette; the second is made up with military shoulders and has more waist suppression; and the third is slimmer and has “normal shoulders.”
This is approximately right, but some countries are affected more than others. Jesse, for example, described the traditional American suiting style beautifully a few months ago. Because of the importance of J. Press in our sartorial culture, his definition is particularly apt for America. However, in a country like Italy, it can be a little more varied. A Neapolitan jacket, for example, may be very different from a Roman jacket, and some might argue that Naples itself is too diverse to categorize. As a consequence, it’s beneficial to break down a suit’s silhouette into pieces rather than thinking about them all at once. You’ll be better able to recognize what you like and don’t like about a suit this way, and you’ll be better prepared to find one that best suits your personal style.
Suit lingo & terminology explained ii – gentleman’s gazette
For the sake of brevity, this column will only cover three topics: trouser rise, leg width, and trouser hem-line. In other words, I’ll be concentrating on trouser fit, which I feel receives far too little exposure in modern fashion.
In my first column on the topic, I wrote about how trousers get a raw deal, and what I meant by that was that we don’t think about them enough or give them nearly enough attention. It’s easy to see why; we all wear trousers every day of our lives, they’re easily ignored and taken for granted, and as the bottom half of your outfit, they don’t get nearly as much attention as the much more intricately tailored blazer on top, which most of the time feels far more like an event when you put it on.
As a result, the trouser for the vast majority of men literally falls around their waist and covers their legs – job done. Not so, since a well-cut and styled trouser can truly become the focal point of your ensemble, or at the very least prevent the other (often more carefully considered) elements from being let down by poor attention to detail or an unremarkable fit. Trousers with shapeless legs that rest on the hips do little to flatter one’s figure when they can consciously sculpt and slim the lower half of one’s body with some subtle changes.
How to draw a man in a suit
In the early 1900s, most suits were made up of three parts: the jacket, the pants, and the vest (known as a waistcoat at the time). Morning coats, which are simply jackets with a curved assymmetrical tailcoat from front to back, were worn by men throughout the day. Matching or slightly striped trousers were often worn with these coats. Evening suits in darker colors and finer fabrics were also available for men. Affluent men of this age, like women, would change clothes many times a day as a matter of propriety.
Lighter fabrics and simpler suits became fashionable in the 1910s. A man’s daytime suit by the end of the 1910s consisted of a simple single-breasted jacket with narrow lapels and high buttons. This was worn with a pair of straight-leg trousers.
Button-down shirts were typically pastel and striped, with a club (round-edge) collar and tie. Collars were detachable, it should be remembered. This was due to the fact that collars needed more regular cleaning than shirts and could be replaced more quickly if they were damaged. Boater or gambler caps, as well as two-tone boots, completed the look for the men.
How to know if a suit fits properly | men’s fashion
Most experts believe that there are three main types of suit, named after the countries where they originated, but it is now very normal to see all three styles, as well as fusions of elements from one or more different styles, in any region.
The Italian or Continental style, which is characterized by a lightweight structure, squared and high shoulders, a short, close-fitting single-breasted body with two buttons and no vent, is the next.
Suit jackets are characterized by a number of factors, including the fabric used (including color and weight), the suit’s design or cut, the details or trimming applied, and the degree of customization to the wearer, among others.
A good tailor can cut a suit to highlight the wearer’s strengths while concealing his shortcomings. For this purpose alone, a man should consider custom clothing; with a suit covering 90% of your body, the message it sends out always outweighs everything you might say.
A custom pattern is produced for each man, kept on record, and only pulled out when minor modifications or new garments are made; bespoke suits are custom-tailored to a gentleman’s specifications and designed by hand by a master tailor; a custom pattern is created for each man, kept on record, and only pulled out when small alterations or new garments are made.