Laser cut foam core

Laser cut packaging foam

It is dependent on the type of Laser Cutter in question. A Co2 Laser is not the same as the low-cost visible light low-power Lasers. Low-power lasers from China can not cut all the way through. They removed the top paper and melted the foam to a thickness of about 1mm. You’ll have a nice short line to pursue with a Razor now!
I’m interested as well. I’ll be able to use a Trotec Speedy 300 80W CO2 laser cutter soon. For foam surface, what power and speed settings are people using? Adobe Illustrator is used to create our files, and it interacts with the cutter through the print dialogue.
I cut mine out with an 80W CO2 laser from my local makerspace. Yes, I open the PDF in LibreCAD, clean it up, and save it as a DXF file. If I paint the lines correctly, LaserCut5.3 (the program that our laser uses) can divide the paths into “layers,” and each layer can be set for power and speed separately. I use it to write on the paper as well as etch it for potential cuts and through-cuts. Two-part through cuts are recommended. Both the insides and the outsides are essential. Any part with holes (such as servo mount holes, part insert slots, and so on) should have the hole cut first, then the outside perimeter. Otherwise, cutting the inside holes after the part has been cut would almost certainly not be aligned correctly – things change until cut out completely.

Laser cutting polyurethane foam

Hello, there! When cutting foam core, I’m searching for the best settings to start with. This will be a very thin foam core, about 1/4 inch thick. I read through some of the previous posts but couldn’t find any reliable figures.
Foam core should not be used, according to what I’ve read. The kind of material that looks like poster board on both sides and has foam in the centre. I used to use the foam core stuff before I read about how bad it was for the system.
It is important for you to keep a close eye on it. There is a chance of burning, like there is with many other items with a lot of air pockets. We came to a halt a few times to put out minor flare-ups that were melting the edges and causing the paper to flame on top.
Please be aware that since there are so many different types of cardboard, there is no single starting setting. Foamcore, in my experience, takes much less energy than most paperboard/cardboard materials. Of course, YMMV.


In addition, I’d like the tool to score cut (50 percent ) certain lines while cutting along others. I’m just curious as to the best way to prepare the file for the tool to cut one line at 50% depth and the other lines at maximum depth.
I’m not sure whether laser or CNC will be better, but the best way I’ve found to do different depths is to make an SVG file with the two depths in separate layers, then save the separate layers as separate SVG files. Each file you add to Luban can have different processing options added to it (depths, tool speeds, laser power, etc.)
I purchased some of those Owens Corning pink ‘insulation’ foam sheets that are 20 inches square and 2 inches thick and used them on my Xcarve. They were machine etched to produce a relief sign, then painted to look like rusted metal using painting techniques.
The milled-off foam bits got everywhere and started sticking to everything on the machine like a clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy clingy The rail, the Z carriage, the spindle’s nonmoving sections, and the terminal block screws were all covered in it.

Laser cutting dollar tree foam

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Can glowforge cut foam board?

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Laser cutter machine for foam

Laser-cut foamboard protection (fumes, etc.) Responded to So I used our school’s laser cutter to cut some elmers 3/16″ foam board today; it gave off some nasty fumes, but luckily most of it was ventilated out of the cutter. Inhaling the fumes (or the low-volume fumes I received from whatever smoke was left in the laser cutter) is something I’m concerned about. I’m not sure how harmful the fumes from laser cutting foam are, but my guess is that they’re very nasty. I’ve also read that heating the foam releases a number of toxic byproducts, one of which is cyanide… Is it safe to handle this stuff? I did feel a little “foggy” afterward, and I had a minor pain in my chest… Thank you so much! Lasercuttersfoamfoam corefoamboardelmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerselmerse Remarks
Answer in two parts:
1. Indeed, the fumes were most likely poisonous.
2. The symptoms were either psychosomatic or entirely unrelated to the fumes unless you inhaled large amounts of the fumes in an unventilated environment.
Since it’s a school laser cutter, I’m assuming that health and safety issues like ventilation and fume filtration have been addressed, but there are a few items that are easy to overlook:
> Switch on the ventilation before you start cutting, otherwise fumes can build up inside the cutter and start depositing icky stuff on lenses and mirrors.> Don’t open the lid right away after you finish cutting – it’s best to keep the fan running for at least two minutes between finishing cutting and opening the lid while producing unhealthy fumes.
(As an aside, be aware of the chlorine content of plastics; if I used our laser cutter on PVC or urethane-based products, the warranty would be instantly voided because the fumes emitted would severely corrode the mirrors.)
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